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| Home > Topics > East Asia > Shanghai 1867-1870 |
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Shanghai, German Club |
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The routine way of life and the awareness of being dependent upon one another meant that the tone was primarily one of comradeship and that the ties between each individual were closer than was customary in Europe. I fondly look back on those times, seeing as I found myself in the company of forthright comrades of my own age and lively humour, providing for distraction, sometimes in connection with overindulgence (only in the absence of the ladies). ...
The Germans had a respected position. Raised in a modest fashion, without demands, they did not indulge in the luxurious life usual in the Orient. They worked industriously and were content with their lives in the comfortable rooms of their modest clubs, where they entertained the entire foreign colony with their successful amateur performances. As for music, there were outstanding artists, and I still remember today with pleasure certain concerts performed by these dilettantes. ...
Immediately following my arrival in Shanghai, I paid the obligatory round of visits to various companies, officials and consular authorities, which were then immediately reciprocated. Even the Toutay (mayor), who lived in the Chinese city, reciprocated my visit in the most festive manner. He had me notified in advance of his arrival, which was signalled by three strikes of a gong. These three gongs were repeated when he descended from the sedan-chair in front of my residence.
Our conversation was through an interpreter. It centred on an exchange of well-chosen pleasantries and polite remarks. I remembered having read that the Chinese Emperor once a year guided the plough himself, which I remarked as a laudable example worth following, to which he replied that the ruler of my country of birth also possessed character traits worthy of emulation.
At the change of the year, he sent me presents that, for the sake of control, were itemized on a list and included a lean ham as well as other objects of little use. Rules of etiquette required that I extend to him an equal number of counter-presents. At that time, I had a poor sort of champagne in storage, and it was with an effort that I withstood the temptation to dedicate seven bottles to him. I later heard it was customary among the Chinese to have such gifts fully consumed at the giver's next visit. I would not have wanted to expose myself to such an ingenious revenge.
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